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Date/Report Number …..030114.WWIIJECCOM Item: J.E. CALDWELL & Co CONCORD OFFICERS MILITARY WATCH | ||
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Description of item: VINTAGEWWII I J.E. CALDWELL & Co CONCORD OFFICERS MILITARY WATCH WITH DOUBLE WATER PROOF” STEEL CASE HALL MARKED BY Taubert & Fils BORGEL FB KEY MAKERS OF PATEK & VACHERON WATCH CASES. W 28.5 X 36 MM WITH ORIGINAL PATENTED 1940 SPRING CLIP BRACELET CONDITION NEAR MINT.
.Estimated Retail Replacement Value $799.00 |
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Reports are supplied at the request of the customer and it is for the customer’s exclusive use. Reports express an opinion of the time of the examination of the jewelry. This report is for customers use only for the following two purposes, indicating estimated retail replacement value to obtain insurance coverage, or for the purpose of providing geological information. goldsmith Works does not guarantee that the appraisal valuation will result in a sale at the price. Estimated retail replacement value is arrived after analyses of what the approximate high retail cash asking price is for labor, materials, and design. These prices may be substantially higher than actual transaction or warranty with regards to any item described in the report, since jewelry grading is not an exact science, this report represent the best opinion of the company. GoldSmith Works is in no case responsible for differences that occur by repeated grading by other experts in the field and/or use of other standards, norms, methods or criteria other than those used by GoldSmith Works. GoldSmith Works is expressly held harmless by customers including, but with out limitation for any claims or actions that may arise out of negligence in connection with the preparation of this laboratory report, or actions based upon the customer’s use of the report. The information on the carat weight, clarity grade, color grade on the report is approximate due to the limitations in jewelry grading. The item was tested, graded, and examined under 10x magnification using the techniques and equipment available to GoldSmith Works, including fully corrected triplet loupe, binocular microscope, master color comparison guides, diamond color comparison tools, electronic carat balance, non-contact optical measuring device, and ancillary instruments necessary at the time of Exam |
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WWII
J.E. CALDWELL & Co
CONCORD
OFFICERS
MILITARY WATCH
WITH
DOUBLE “WATER PROOF” STEEL CASE
HALL MARKED
BY
Taubert & Fils
BORGEL FB KEY
MAKERS OF
PATEK & VACHERON
WATCH CASES
W
28.5 X 36 MMWITH
ORIGINAL
PATENTED 1940
SPRING CLIP BRACELET
CONCORD
Founded in 1908 in Biel, Switzerland, CONCORD was created to design watches with the American market in mind
. Concord has made several innovations in its history such as being one of the first “private label” luxury watches to
incorporate precious metals and gems in its watches. It was also the first company to make a wristwatch made of coins.IN 1945, U.S. PRESIDENT TRUMAN PRESENTED CONCORD CLOCKS TO
CHURCHILL & STALIN ON THE OCCASION OF THE POTSDAM PEACE CONFERENCE IN BERLIN.*************************************
J. E. CALDWELL & CO.
Trained as a silversmith in New York City, James E. Caldwell, worked for a short period of time on Maiden Lane, in New York City, before opening a small watchmaker’s shop on Fifth and Chestnut Street in Philadelphia, sometime in the early 1830s. By 1839, James Emmott Caldwell began to supply wealthy Philadelphia’s with stylish European jewelry, silver, and objets d’art. Caldwell’s business quickly flourished. Over several decades, the store changed locations and owners a handful of times. In 1868, the firm was officially dubbed J.E. Caldwell and Co. After fires ravaged the city in that same year, the store was rebuilt at 902 Chestnut Street. Towards the end of the nineteenth century, the firm began to create beautiful gem-set, hand fabricated Art Nouveau jewels. Its pieces are among the finest examples of American Art Nouveau jewelry; they feature finely chased surfaces, unusual gemstones, as well as typical Nouveau motifs: curvaceous women, vines, garlands, flowers, and insects.In 1916, J.E. Caldwell relocated to a more fashionable and affluent part of town, at the corner of Juniper and Chestnut Street.Throughout the 1920’s, the firm produced fine pieces of Art Deco jewelry for which it is still known. Since then, it has continued to offer high quality jewels according to the current styles. In 1953, under the direction of Austïon Homer, who had become president of Caldwell’s the previous year, the company began a branch store expansion, opening their second location in the Hotel Dupont in Wilmington, Delaware. Caldwell & Co. was purchased by Henry Birks & Sons, a Montreal-based jeweler and in August 1992, was acquired by Carlyle & Co., a family owned jewelry concern in Greensboro, North Carolina
TAUBERT & FILS
Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva based case makers and specialists in the manufacture
of high quality dirt and moisture-resistant cases. The company’s case stamp was F.B. within a cartouche.
Borgel’s FB KEY Trade Mark
Francois Borgel would set up shop in 1887 in Geneva, Switzerland. His registered trademark
[“marque de fabrique”] was created using his initials [FB] with a Geneva key.
REGISTRATION
In October of 1891, Francois would patent his famous and eponymous watch case design. His
Swiss “Brevet” [Patent] was number 4001. Francois would also patent his design in England under Patent number 20,422.
GENEVA COAT ARMS
The Borgel case was an early attempt to make wrist watches resistant to dust and moisture. It had a one piece case
with no separate back opening. The movement was mounted in a threaded carrier ring attached to the bezel,
and this assembly screws into the one piece case from the front.
Though Longines, The International Watch Co. of Schaffhausen (IWC) , and other lesser known Swiss watch manufacturers were early adopters
of the Borgel screw case, it was Mr. Wyler of the new Wyler Watch Co in 1928 who would use the base of the Francois Borgel invention to
invent his own modern style of the one piece case design that would then find it’s way into history and adoption by over 20 other brands whom
followed Wyler’s designs.After the death of Francois Borgel in 1912, his daughter Louisa Borgel would continue the manufacture of Borgel
screw cases. In 1924, Borgel was purchased by Taubert & Fils who continued to use the then famous FB-key trademark.
Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases
. Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.
ABOVE ARE PICTURES OF THIS WATCH AND THE LAST
AND ONLY OTHER WWII CONCORD WE RESTORED
*****************
OUR STORY
GSW INVESTED IN THIS AWESOME WWII SUB-SECONDS CONCORD DUE TO IT’S RARITY. DISTRIBUTED
IN THE USA BY FAMOUS J. E. CALDWELL & CO. FROM 1930 THROUGH 1943, IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST
EXPENSIVELY BUILT AND OFFERED TIME PIECES OF IT’S DAY.ONLY 12 WERE OFFERED ONLINE THAT
“WE ARE AWARE OF IN 10 YEARS. DURING THAT TEN YEARS, WE HAD OPPORTUNITY TO INVEST IN TWO. ONE
WAS THE CONVERTED SWEEP SECONDS CONCORD VERSION AND THE OTHER THIS ORIGINAL SUB-SECOND CONCORD
— WHICH COST 135.00 BEFORE RESTORATION AND OVERHAUL WITH WARRANTY AND APPRAISAL .
THE SWEEP SECONDS HACK — A SUB-SECOND MOVEMENT IS “FACTORY HACKED” TO FIT A SWEEP HAND —
IS A TOTAL “RESTORATION TO ORIGINAL CONDITION”.
NOTE: THE RADIUM WAS DEAD IT HAS BEEN RE-ILLUMINATED WITH AF LUMINOVA
RE-ILLUMINATED
RESTORED TO MINT CONDITION
JUST GOOGLE J.E. CALDWELL & Co.
EVEN CHRISTIES AUCTION HOUSE OFFERS
J.E. CALDWELL & CO ITEMS
BEFORE
RESTORED TO
ORIG NEW CONDITION
BALANCE
NEW MAIN SPRING
CLEANED LUBRICATED
AND
RE-ASSEMBLED
THIS DIAL IS AWESOME
THE CASE IS ALL STAINLESS/RUSTLESS STEEL
AND IS
NUMBERED AND HALLMARK
THIS LOOK IS ABOUT CORRECT
AS FAR AS PATINA COLOR
AND
DETAIL
OF
CASE DIAL
AND
HANDS
WITHOUT
MAGNIFICATION
AWESOME
THIS RARE EXCEPTIONAL TIME PIECE
IN ALL STAINLESS STEEL
DEMONSTRATES ITS QUALITY
FROM ITS ABSOLUTE ORIGINAL CRYSTAL
WHICH HAS A WONDERFUL LIGHT COLORATION
TO IT’S HALLMARK DOUBLE CASE
IT’S ORIGINAL DEAD RADIUM DIAL RESTORED
OUTLINED NUMERALS
ORIGINAL RED 24 HR MILITARY RING
ORIGINAL BLACK STEEL
WITH
RE-ILLUMINATED WINDOWS HANDS
S ORIGINAL OUTER MINUTES CHAPTER RING
THIS RARE EXCEPTIONAL TIME PIECE
HAS A TRULY UNIQUE BRACELET THAT WAS POPULAR
TO THOSE WHO COULD FIND ONE. WHILE NOT THE FIRST
STEEL “SPRING” CLIP STYLE WATCH BAND IN THE 1940’S
THIS DESIGN WOULD BE COPIED UNTIL THE MID 1960’S
THE BONKLIP AND THIS SPRING CLIP
WERE UTILIZED ON MANY HI END WATCHES
THIS BRACELET HAS SIMPLE SPRINGS PLACED
WITHIN THE LINKS. CONDITION IS EXCELLENT
MANY THAT SURVIVE USUALLY HAVE CLIPS MISSING
BROKEN OR WORN. THE SPRINGS ARE STRONG
THE DIAL IS AWESOME
ROCK WANTED TO ADD THIS BABY TO HIS
COLLECTION NOTE THE CROWN .
THIS STEM TUBE IS MILITARY STYLE
THICK AND WIDE
WHILE WE HAVE SEEN SEVERAL DIFFERENT
CROWNS ON THE OTHER SIMILAR MODELS
THEY ALL LOOK THE SAME
I LIKE TO CALL THIS A MUSHROOM CROWN
THIS CROWN ACTUALLY IS SEATED
WHEN PULLED LIGHTLY IT ONLY
MOVES A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE CASE
LEAVING THE CROWN STILL OVER THE TUBE
28.5 X 36 MM
IS THE STANDARD MEN’S SIZE
OF THE PERIOD
THE A-11 WWII HACKING
MILITARY WATCH
IS
28 MM TO 29 MM
IF YOU EVER WANT ONE LET US KNOW
WE WILL PLACE ON EBAY FOR YOU
YOU CAN SEE THE CASE BACK WAS MADE
TO UTILIZE A SPECIAL CASE WRENCH
WE DETAILED THE CASE BACK
DUE TO THE FACT SOMEONE USED A TOOL
THAT DOES NOT FIT THE CASE BACK
AND HEAVILY SCRATCHED IT
ONLY A FEW LIGHT MARKS REMAIN
ALL PARTS WERE DISASSEMBLED
NOTE HOW THIS THE ENTIRE
TIME PIECE WITH BRACELET IS!
J.E. CALDWELL & CO
SOLD HIGH END PRODUCTS
TO
HIGH END CLIENTS
THIS PARTICULAR MODEL WAS BUILT
BY CONCORD WATCH CO
AWESOME
Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases.
Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.
UNUSUAL FOR
1935 TO 1943
ARE NUMBERED
CASE BACKS & CASES
Borgel’s FB KEY Trade Mark
FB
KEY
CONCORD WATCH CO
SWISS
STAINLESS STEEL
5667
NOTE
AS WITH MANY LUXURY
WATCH MANUFACTURERS
THE CASE SERIAL #
IS REPEATED FROM CASE BACK
TO
BETWEEN THE LUGS OF THE CASE
5667
MILITARY DUST/ANTIMAGNETIC SHIELDED
MOVEMENT RING WITH LEDGE ALLOWS THE TOP
SHIELD TO SNAP INTO THIS MOVEMENT RING
Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases.
Among the famous top high end watch companies they they worked with Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.
ROCK ADDED A NEW
ORIGINAL STYLE GRAY SEAL
ANOTHER CASE BACK SHOT
Borgel’s FB KEY Trade Mark
Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases.
Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.
STEEL CASE TOP SIDE BEFORE RESTORE
STEEL CASE BOTTOM SIDE BEFORE RESTORE
IN ITS TIME A FANTASTIC
ADDITION TO MILITARY WATCHES
AND
HIGH END WATCHES
THIS IS THE TWO PART
“INNER CASE”
COMPOSED OF COPPER AND TIN
IT WAS A BRONZE SHIELD
THAT REPELLED MAGNETISM
IT SEALED THE WATCH
WITH AN ADDITIONAL COVER
FROM
MOISTURE AND DUST
GREAT ORIGINAL 1940 STEEL BAND
HERE SHE IS SEPARATED
NOTE THE WELL DESIGNED AND HAND MANUFACTURED
15 JEWEL CONCORD MANUAL WIND MOVEMENT
TOP VIEW
AFTER OVERHAUL
HERE THERE IS JUST ENOUGH SPACE
TO ADD THE INNER CASE SIDES AND COVER
NOTE THE BLACK U INNER LEFT SIDE BELOW CROWN
THAT IS NOTCH TO LINE UP
THE INNER CASE
HERE WE SEE THE INNER CASE WALL INSTALLED
THE TOP SNAPS ONTO THE WALL
INSTALLED
SIGNED
CONCORD WATCH Co
SWISS
242W
FIFTEEN 15 JEWELS
UNADJUSTED
CXC
[CONCORD EXPORT CODE]